Sunday, January 2, 2011

Indian Tacos

The subject of this blog is not one that I'm terribly comfortable writing about, but it was requested that I write as much as I can. I am a member of the Osage Nation of Oklahoma, and as long as I can remember, I have wanted to know more about that part of my heritage, including its traditional foods.  I was able to spend some time working on the reservation this past summer (see August 2010 "On the Osage"), and I have been teaching myself to speak Wah-Zha-Zhi I'E (literally translated to Osage Words). I have read nearly everything I can get my hands on about the tribe, but the truth is, books can't really paint a fair picture of any culture. I wish I could say that I was one of those lucky individuals raised in the "old ways," but my family moved off the reservation with my grandmother's generation. Despite my admitted ignorance, my interest, loyalty, and respect for the Nation, and Native American culture in general, could not be more sincere. Having put myself into an appropriate context, I present the following information as a person who is primarily self-taught and certainly not an expert. I was specifically asked to write about making Indian tacos. As I said, this is a recipe that I have worked out for myself, not something handed down through the generations or anything like that.  Below is what I have learned about this particular dish, but I welcome corrections and additions from anyone who knows more.

I first tried "Indian tacos" at an intertribal powwow. They're pretty standard fare for these events, though neither powwows nor Indian tacos are what you would call "authentic" to Native American culture. That's not to say they aren't tasty or fun. The word "powwow" comes from an Algonquian word for a specific religious experience. Powwows, as most people think of them, developed around the time that tribes were moved to reservations.  On reservations, tribes were often placed in close proximity to others with whom they had not historically interacted. Some of these tribes already had dance events as part of their culture. After the moves, ceremonial songs and dances were shared and, in some cases, modified by the receiving tribes. This was the case of the Osage dances known as the "In Lon Schka." These were shared with the Osage by other tribes, and continue to be important tribal events. They are not powwows. Some say modern intertribal powwows developed because the tribes were forced to dance as a public spectacle. Others say the events were intended to solidify good relations and share culture between newly introduced neighbors. In their modern form, these dances allow a tribe or multiple tribes to come together to celebrate their heritage, special events, or to honor or raise funds for worthy causes. As fun as they can be, modern powwows can also become disrespectful when they are not organized by appropriate people with genuine intentions and knowledge.

As far as the food goes, powwows often involve a feast at one point or another and a range of concessions throughout. So called "Indian tacos" are an extremely popular concession item. They consist of a piece of Indian fry bread topped with taco meat and various condiments. The recipe I have for fry bread comes from an old Osage cook book printed in 1955 by Sylvester and Alice Tinker.

"Costue (Squaw Bread)
1 pt sour milk
1 tbs shortening
1/2 tsp soda
3 heaping tsps Baking Powder
1 tsp salt

Flour enough to make dough easily handled. Knead smooth, roll out to 1/2 inch thickness. Divide in portions equal to a medium sized biscuit, cut 2 or 3 slits in this and cook in a kettle of deep fat as doughnuts. This should make a piece about the size of a saucer."

This is probably a fairly traditional version, but there are easier ones available online. I have to admit that when I make fry bread at home, I usually use a really good mix I picked up over the summer. It's the "Authentic Fry Bread Mix" from Red Corn Native Foods out of Pawhuska, OK (http://redcorn.com/).


As far as toppings go, most taco recipes include a meat (beef, bison, or venison all work well) cooked in various ways. I've seen everything from browned with chopped onion to chili. I like to use a combination of taco and chili seasonings, onion, red beans, and a tiny bit of tomato sauce for moisture. Layer this on top of the fry bread with lettuce, diced tomato, onion, black olives, and cheddar cheese or a combination there of. I've also seen avocado, salsa, and sour cream used. I hope this gets everyone started on the road to great Indian tacos.

Let me just end by saying that the best thing about making Indian tacos is having fry bread left over for dessert...all you need is a little powdered sugar!

References:
Tinker, Sylvester and Alice, 1955. Authenticated American Indian Recipes.