Everyone has probably had the stereotypical deviled egg...yolks mashed with pickle relish, mayonnaise, and mustard with a little salt, pepper, and a garnish of paprika. This standard arrangement is probably the reason I came around to liking deviled eggs later in life...I don't really like pickle relish. I tried a friend's version once that had all the usual ingredients except the relish. That was good but a little bland. Finally, I did my own research and discovered that Joy of Cooking (my default guide for everything food) doesn't even call for pickle relish! According to this reference the deviled egg is actually a southern variation on the stuffed egg. The "deviled" part comes from hot sauce and paprika...ironic since I'm not sure I'd ever seen anyone use hot sauce in their recipe. After playing with all this for a bit...I landed on a version that I really like.
No matter what recipe you use, it's hard to disagree that good deviled eggs start with one key ingredient: good boiled eggs. My friend Maria (who will get a good laugh at being mentioned here) informed me several months ago that there is actually a proper way to boil eggs. Returning to my Joy of Cooking, I discovered that she is totally right. To boil an egg correctly, you bring a small pot of water to a simmer (not an actual boil). Add the eggs gently, making sure the water covers them all completely. When the water returns to a simmer, start the clock. You'll need 14 minutes for your average large egg (12 min for medium or small eggs and 15 min for jumbo eggs). Keep the water simmering but not boiling for the duration. When the timer goes off, plunge the eggs immediately into ice water to stop the cooking. You'll find that this process actually makes perfectly cooked, fluffy eggs with yolks that aren't chalky or hard. Despite my deep love for fresh, free range eggs, it turns out that eggs that are too fresh won't peel very well when they're boiled. Store bought is the way to go for this or at least letting your farmer's market eggs sit in the fridge for a week.
After you peel your eggs, cut them in half parallel to their long axis (so they look like an avocado). Place the yolks in a mixing bowl and the whites on your deviled egg dish. I like to chill the whites while I make the filling because I think it makes them firmer and less likely to tear. With the yolks, mix the following ingredients:
Jenn's Deviled Egg Filling (a slight variation on "Deviled Eggs" Page 126 in The All New Joy of Cooking)
4 yolks removed from hard boiled eggs and mashed
2 tablespoons of mayonnaise or miracle whip
2 teaspoons freshly minced chives
1/2-1 teaspoon spicy dijon mustard
1 teaspoon yellow mustard
1 teaspoon vinegar (any type)
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon worcestershire sauce
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
pinch of curry powder (optional)
hot sauce to taste
Be sure you mash your yolks first or you'll never get the filling smooth. When it says "any type" in regards to the vinegar, I have found that regular white vinegar will give a more classic "pickle relish" taste. Apple cider vinegar adds a hint of sweetness, and balsamic vinegar adds a really interesting tanginess. Once the filling is smoothly mixed, spoon it into a ziplock bag. Cut off a small piece from one of the lower corners of the bag and leave at least part of the zip top open for air to escape. Use the whole thing like a pastry bag to pipe the filling into the egg whites. Garnish with ground red pepper or paprika and serve chilled.
References:
Rombauer IS, Becker MR, and Becker E, 1997. The All New, All Purpose Joy of Cooking. Scribner Publishing. Pages 125-126.
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